|
Post by coopdad on Feb 4, 2009 6:08:23 GMT -8
Until now I have been using .1" rod (Evergreen #213) for my cages. It works well but I have always felt it was just a little large looking, especially for 1/25 models. So I hit the local hobby store and found .093 TUBE (Evergreen #223). To me it looks a little more correct and the big advantage, it is tube so it has a couple of advantages over rod: 1. it bends much easier 2a. it is so bendable that it will allow you to adjust the curve radius and location very easily. 2b. it holds its curve better. The rod would not stay at the desired radius, heating was often required to force it to stay. 2c. being a tube you can insert wire inside... this makes it hold exactly the curve with NO snap back. 3. it seems less breakable. The .1 rod always seemed to snap when making tight curves 4. and the wire inside the tube works great as locating pegs allowing you to drill holes in the floor and mount it exactly where you want it.
There are disadvantages though. Because it flexes so well, the first hoop starts out very flimsy until you have a few bars in place... this is a little un-nerving to me knowing the cage will be correct, later.
Thought I would share my find. John
|
|
|
Post by modeljeeper on Feb 4, 2009 11:40:45 GMT -8
I have mostly used the 0.080 rod as it scales out to 2" in 1/25th scale. I have used the 0.093" tube for 1/24th scale models or on 'full-sized' rigs when it looks right. I tend to go with the smaller diameter stuff as I account for the paint build-up on the finished model. Here is some quick conversions on the sizes and my uses (approximate fractional sizes) Tube/ rod -|- mm -|- 1/24th scale -|- 1/25th scale 0.035 rod -|- 0.88 -|- 0.84", 27/32" -|- 0.875, 7/8" 0.040 rod -|- 1.0 -|- 0.96", 31/32" -|- 1.0"; cage details/knobs/locks0.047 rod -|- 1.2 -|- 1.128", 1-1/8" -|- 1.175", 1-3/16"; cage details0.062 rod -|- 1.6 -|- 1.488", 1-15/32" -|- 1.55", 1-9/16"; cage detail/ steering components0.080 rod -|- 2.0 -|- 1.92", 1-15/16" -|- 2.0"; main cage/bumpers/fenders/link-arms0.093 tube -|- 2.4 -|- 2.232", 2-7/32" -|- 2.325", 2-5/16"; cages/bumpers/shock tubes0.100 tube -|- 2.5 -|- 2.4", 2-13/32" -|- 2.5", 2-1/2"; bumpers/sliders/soda cans0.125 tube -|- 3.2 -|- 3.0" -|- 3.125", 3-1/8"; bumpers/driveshaftswww.evergreenscalemodels.com/They also have the square tubing, quarter- and half-round rods. Richard O. modeljeeper
|
|
|
Post by coopdad on Feb 4, 2009 16:45:51 GMT -8
Great chart Richard! While we are talking about styrene, can you (or anyone else) tell me if someone makes a C-channel where all sides are the same? Sorta box with one side taken off. Evergreen has a C-channel where the top/bottom are much shorter than the side like this: on www.evergreenscalemodels.com/Shapes.htm#Channels I need it for shock mounts. Home-made ones take too long and are uneven. John
|
|
|
Post by modeljeeper on Feb 4, 2009 19:20:50 GMT -8
I think Jake mentioned it first, but grab some of the square tubing and either cut off or out one side to get the deep channel. Or grab the rectangle tubing and slice it in half.
I used it on the Grand Cherokee build for shock and axle link mounts. Very quick and simple to get multiple similar parts.
Richard
|
|
|
Post by abelsr1968 on Feb 5, 2009 18:36:49 GMT -8
Plasta struct i dont know if i got the name rite they make a piece like wht you want i have it and it is 1/4 X 1/4 X 1/4
|
|
|
Post by modeljeeper on Feb 5, 2009 23:13:57 GMT -8
|
|
|
Post by coopdad on Aug 1, 2009 6:00:56 GMT -8
Another trick I have found that makes using tube rather than rod is making alignment pins. If you need to butt tubes together, just insert a slightly smaller rod inside and use it to line up the bars. For instance, I made a bar too long so I cut out a small section using a saw. Then connected them together with a short piece of 1.2mm diameter rod inserted inside. It forces the bars to line up perfectly... you can't even tell where it was cut (if your cuts are clean). A disadvantage I have found is that if you use the wire inside, cutting the tube in a section where the wire goes can be problematic. You will have to cut the wire inside also. Xacto for the tube, diagonal clippers for the wire, and file to sand it flat (the wire always sticks out slightly because the clippers won't cut close enough to the end.) So I have started using the wire only in curved sections. John
|
|