abe dooley
5-1600
NEED PICS FOR NEXT BUILD.
Posts: 63
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Post by abe dooley on Jul 13, 2009 11:41:30 GMT -8
I was wondering if anyone would happen to have any tutorials on how to make: HI-LIFT jacks, shovels (should be an easy one), material for tow straps and other misc. offroading items. ANTY HELP WOULD BE AWESOME GUYS!
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Post by coopdad on Jul 14, 2009 12:13:29 GMT -8
Abe, I will need to make a high lift here soon... in the next week or so. I will take pix and post as a tutorial. John p.s. I found making the high lift easier than making the shovel. The blade was difficult to make look real.
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Post by wtsf150 on Jul 14, 2009 18:00:26 GMT -8
I think Richard here has a tutorial on those jacks if he sees this maybe he'll chime in his jaks looks great im sure yous will to John after seeing all the other work you've done Willie
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Post by modeljeeper on Jul 14, 2009 21:45:33 GMT -8
I don't have a tutorial on making the hi-lifts but they are just Evergreen I-beam for the mast and bits and pieces for the base and jack-part. The handle is just Evergreen styrene rod. The jack-head is built so its tight to the mast in order to keep a model up in the air. Richard O. modeljeeper
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abe dooley
5-1600
NEED PICS FOR NEXT BUILD.
Posts: 63
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Post by abe dooley on Jul 15, 2009 4:10:53 GMT -8
I don't have a tutorial on making the hi-lifts but they are just Evergreen I-beam for the mast and bits and pieces for the base and jack-part. The handle is just Evergreen styrene rod. The jack-head is built so its tight to the mast in order to keep a model up in the air. Richard O. modeljeeper Okay, Now what size I-Beam, Stryrene Rod, and other pieces? Then, How did you make the "BODY" of the working part itself? Did you make it functional? Did you drill the holes in the I-Beam? How did you make the base and cap, ETC., ETC. Those are some really good looking jacks..... and it looks like you have the process down pat. Thanks for your help.
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Post by coopdad on Jul 15, 2009 6:59:40 GMT -8
Here is a trick I learned from my dad for getting the holes uniform. Drill one hole but don't remove the bit. Lay a "spacer" beside it pushing it right up against the bit. Then hold the spacer tightly and pull the drill bit out hopping it to the other side of the spacer and drill again. If you repeat this you will have uniform distances between the holes. All the other parts for the lift are "just do it" parts... grab some styrene and just start cutting/gluing until it is done. John
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abe dooley
5-1600
NEED PICS FOR NEXT BUILD.
Posts: 63
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Post by abe dooley on Jul 15, 2009 17:38:09 GMT -8
That is an AWESOME tip. Its the kind of tip that makes ya think, "Why didn't I think of that!!".
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Post by modeljeeper on Jul 15, 2009 23:36:24 GMT -8
The only functional part is the head will slide up/down the shaft and the handle will pivot. The head is a bunch of scrap plastic parts cobbled together to roughly match the look of the Hi-lift. I'll get the part numbers used for the shaft later.
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Post by wtsf150 on Jul 16, 2009 15:47:00 GMT -8
Hey abe i forgot you also asked about tow straps on my Bronco i used 1/8th inch wide yellow ribbon i then "dirtyed" it up useing black artist chalks Willie
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Post by modeljeeper on Jul 16, 2009 21:04:42 GMT -8
Okay, The shaft is Evergreen I-beam # 272 which is 0.080"/2mm wide. All other measaurements below are in scale feet/inches. The length varies at 36/42/48 and 60" tall. The base plate is approx 4x6" with four triangular blocks to hold the shaft upright. Two blocks are the same width as the shaft and the other two fit into the I-beam recess, all are about 2" tall by 1" deep. The head unit is comprised of six basic shapes. One triangular piece on the rear as wide as the I-beam and ~6" long. Two strips ride on either side of the I-beam and fit within the recess. The nose piece (lifting lip) is as wide as the I-beam but made ~4" long by 4"high. To connect all these pieces, two strips are applied at the top and extend out the rear for the ~1" handle (0.047" styrene rod) to attach to. Just use the photo of the real Hi-lift to base yours after. The newer head units are more square and enclosed than what I was building. Richard O. modeljeeper
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Post by modeljeeper on Jul 16, 2009 21:12:09 GMT -8
For tow straps, I have found 1/8 inch (3" scale) and better yet, 1/16th inch ( 1.5" scale) wide ribbon in either yellow or white. I like the look of the smaller stuff when placed in a tool box, 1/25th scale model. The only shovel I have used on a model came from the MPC/AMT Hogans Hero Jeep kit after I separated it from the axe and mounting straps (for use on the side of the Jeep).
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abe dooley
5-1600
NEED PICS FOR NEXT BUILD.
Posts: 63
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Post by abe dooley on Jul 17, 2009 6:06:42 GMT -8
Thanks ModelJeeper........ Now just need to try it. I'll have to order some I-Beam rods. I might have some brass I-Beams that size. I can't remember which build I saw of yours that had the tow strap in the tool box, but is that a certain kind of ribbon? I ask because I notice it has the weaved look.
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Post by coopdad on Jul 17, 2009 9:12:40 GMT -8
Abe, I used masking tape for my belts... it too has a texture and it is easily painted if you want a specific color. Plus, chances are you already have some lying around the house. John
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